PTE BB 50 trim
DNP manifold/o2housing with 38mm flange
Tial 38mm WG
K&N FIPK w/ Forced performance 4″ pipe
HKS carbon ti 3″ catback
Apexi GT 3″ DP
greddy type S BOV
SBR short route piping 24×12/3.5
walbro 255 pump
PTE 680cc
Fuel Pressure regulator (w/ gauge)
Dsmlink
Greddy E 01 2″ drop eibach sportline springs
KYB shocks,struts AGX adjustable
ACT 2600 clutch/ fidanze flywheel
B&M short shifter
underdrive pulley
18″Racing Hart c2’s
autometer boost, air/fuel gauges, 3 pillar,volt,water temp,EGT
AEM wideband
Protane Motor mounts
These questions pertain to a 1996 Mitsubishi eclipse GST with healthy engine.
How much would it cost to purchase all of these parts brand new?
How much would it cost to have all these parts professionally installed in a 1996 Mitsubishi eclipse gsx?
Would this make about 500+ HP?
If not what else would i need to make 500+hp?
It would cost wayyy more than the car is even worth. If you’re going to spend that much money, then you should just buy a better car.
i would just guess by looking at the parts (not brands) around 4-5k to buy and have installed. That turbo wont get you 500hp though, youll need like a garrett 60-1, or gt35, or holset hx35 to see that much power
The parts list UNINSTALLED will be in the $7000 range. Add another $2,000 for install and necessary tuning/unknowns. After all is said and done you can still only push 14psi on this motor due to no internal work on the block itself. You would be in the 300-320 whp range. Now add another $3,000-$5,000 for a complete rebuild and a larger turbo like a GT35R or GT40R and you can make the 500 whp mark.
Take it from me, I’ve had a 12 second eclipse (no idea how much horsepower, i’d guess in the high 300s), and 500 isn’t just difficult to reach, it’s kind of pointless. You’re talking about a FWD eclipse. AWD, different story, but lets work with what you’ve got. I recommend the following set up, and you’ll have one hell of a street machine that prices at just above 1000, I would know, this is the set up I used on my AWD 1990 to hit mid 12s which is definitely enough for a street car.
MODS:
Evo III (big) 16g turbo–600 @ slowbowracing.com
Full 3inch turbo back exhaust– between 300-500
Boost controller- between 80-400 (depends if you go manual or electronic, it really doesn’t matter). Set the boost controller to 15, don’t go any higher for the set up im listing.
Any intake will work (get beaded pipes so you can avoid pipe blow out under full boost) –300
JDMsport FMIC–100-250 depending where you look
Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, DO NOT GO ACT, you will ruin it!–450 @ slowboy racing
Remove AC/PS belt–free! (frees up some HP)
Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump–you can find one used for about 70
Screamer Tube (get this when you do the exhaust, it will eliminate boost creep)
That set up will put you in the low 13s, high twelves.
My set up included a Stage 4 slowboy racing head which was port and polished, came with Ferra Valves, Brian Crower Retainers and Valve Springs. Also, I removed my balance shafts which helps.
With all this, you’ll want to look into Apexi’s SAFC II unit. It’s fairly easy to tune with and will help eliminate annoying fuel cut you’ll experience at high RPMS with the 16g.
I’d also throw a pair of NITTO 555s on there to grip with, because with that set up, you won’t be gripping until 3rd. I promise.